Malezia 5% Urea Moisturizer and 2.5% Micronized Benzoyl Peroxide Acne Treatment Gel Review

Oh snap, it’s finally here – Malezia is on the market!

Recall back in 2018 the Michelle that started using a 5% Benzoyl Peroxide wash and OTC Differin in her skincare routine? Well, it was after learning a lot about skincare and skin ingredients from awesome people such as Dr. Dray, Lab Muffin Beauty Science, and F.C. from Simple Skincare Science.

SimpleSkincareScience was one of the first places where I really began to understand my skin and how to look for skincare catered to its needs. His focus is on malassezia folliculitis, or as the internet calls it, “fungal acne”. In short, it is a yeast that’s naturally part of our skin’s microbiome that grows in the presence of oil. Its growth seems to be a common factor when it comes to various skin conditions, such as acne!

For extensive information, definitely check out his blog post on the topic, it’s a great learning experience.

While my acne is not “fungal acne”, I can definitely appreciate using products that wouldn’t overfeed the yeast on my skin that may be triggering my acne.

That’s where Malezia comes in – it is a “microbiology-based” skincare company started by F.C. from SimpleSkincareScience. The goal is to “destroy skin diseases” (F.C.’s words lol) by using simple but effective products in a minimal skincare routine. If you look at his skincare guide, it’s just 3 products!

If there is one relatable person on the internet when it comes to dealing with skin concerns, trying everything under the sun and flipping some figurative and literal tables – it’s F.C. My skin improved because of what he shares with the world and I guess in a way I’m trying to “pay it forward” with my blog and youtube by sharing my experience in maintaining clear skin.

With all that being said, I absolutely had to buy Malezia skincare! I’ve have both the 5% Urea Moisturizer and 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide (BPO) Acne Treatment Gel. I have been rotating them in my skincare routines since April 2021 to June 2021 and I am ready to share my thoughts!


About Malezia 5% Urea Moisturizer

Price: $22
Packaging: Opaque pink beige aluminum tube with a twist-off cap.
Amount: 50ml


Urea is a humectant, helps with skin’s desquamation, and it helps improve the function of your skin barrier by thickening it, thus preventing excess Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL).

There are additional, classic moisturizing molecules in the formula – Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid for humectants, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride as an emollient, Dimethicone as an occlusive.

Allantoin is also present in the INCI list, a classic soother.

Overall the formula is nice and simple, with 5% urea being the star! The list has 13 ingredients total, none that should comprimise those with malassezia folliculitis and other skin concerns related to this overly fed fungi.


About Malezia 2.5% BPO Acne Treatment Gel

Price: $11.50
Packaging: Opaque black aluminum tube with a twist-off cap.
Amount: 50ml

Malezia Acne Treatment Gel has a whopping 7 ingredients! The focus is around the 2.5% BPO in the formula.

In my skinthusiast opinion, BPO is THE best OTC active you can use for inflamed, active acne. It’s a pro-oxidant that inhibits the acne bacteria, and it can’t “get used to it”. The main issue with this ingredient is while it works really well, it definitely comes with side effects. Micronized, 2.5% BPO is used in the Malezia Acne Treatment as a gentler alternative. Speaking of gentle, you don’t need a high percentage for BPO to work, you don’t even need to leave it on your skin overnight, you can use this like a mask aka Short Contact Therapy!

The Acne Treatment Gel also includes 0.5% Sodium Phytate. According to the Malezia website, it helps “boost skin moisture and elasticity, regulate oil production, and combat hyperpigmentation.”

You’ll also find classic Glycerin in the formula, a humectant naturally occuring in our skin.

Overall the formula is simple and purposeful – beat that acne’s butt without the need to dry the skin out.


My Experience with Malezia Moisturizer and Acne Treatment Gel

Both Malezia’s Urea Moisturizer and BPO Acne Treatment gel have a lovely light gel consistency with no stickiness. The Urea Moisturizer definitely has more body to leave a moisturizing layer, whereas the BPO Acne Treatment Gel is so nice and light, it’s really easy to incorporate in your skincare routine either on the whole face or as a spot treatment.

I would use the Urea Moisturizer right after cleansing as my only hydrator, I stopped using vitamin c as well to see what it would do as the main performer in my AM routine. When I use this, my skin always feels super comfortable, looks even, plump, and overall healthy and unbothered. I have tried a number of times using this on its own, but alas, it’s not enough for my parched skin! I also noticed my sebaceous filaments looked good when I used this as my sole supplemental product in my morning routine. Not sure if it’s because of the urea, or because I stopped using layers of other hydrators, or both! In addition, it managed to calm an allergic reaction I had on my cheek quickly.

For the BPO Acne Treatment Gel, I discontinued Aczone and tried it in both my morning and nighttime skincare routine; I would not use Tretinoin if I used BPO at night.

Reaction the morning after using Malezia 2.5% BPO Gel all over my face.

I got too confident in my skin and applied this 2.5% BPO gel all over my face one night, and woke up the next morning with a red, puffy, and itchy face 😀 Learning my lesson, I tried the BPO gel via spot-treatment. I personally am not a fan of spot-treating, but it was the only way my skin could tolerate the Acne Treatment Gel at the beginning since I messed up first use. I used it on a couple of acne cysts I got on my chin (typical) and I was happy with how quickly it lowered the size and inflammation around the pimple. My husband also uses it on the rarely so often spot, and he also noticed how quickly the pimple flattens. I’ve recently been using it all over my back because gym + hot weather = gnarly cystic bacne breakouts. I’ve experienced no irritation, dryness and the size and redness has already significantly reduced.

Selfie after using Malezia 5% Urea Moisturizer in my skincare routine.

Overall I like the simplicity of both formulations in the Malezia Moisturizer and Acne Treatment Gel, but it is not enough for my thirsty skin if used on its own. If you’re looking at keeping your routine minimal, I think these two items are better for those of you with oilier skin types. If you’re a dryer skin type like myself, you can definitely incorporate both of the urea moisturizer and bpo treatment easily in your existing skincare routine!


Final Thoughts on Malezia

I can feel that this brand was created with genuine intentions to help those of us that suffer from acne. F.C. and supporters created a massive list of “fungal acne” safe products but the big achievement is to have reliable products that check all those boxes without navigating through the noise.

Easy understanding of what they’re doing to be sustainable. I find brands just say they’re environmentally friendly but the method of delivery and claiming glass packaging is the extent of it. Malezia actually shares what they’re doing from the ground up and just makes the information very easy to access and understand.

Makes me embrace the minimalism of skincare. Less is more, both in the formulations and the skincare routine as a whole. The ingredient lists are small to help us consumers understand what’s in our products as well as reduce the likelihood of having negative reactions to products. The 3-step skincare routine also goes to show we really don’t need a lot of products, actives, lotions and potions to get clear, healthy skin.

On their instagram stories and website reviews, the before and afters are quite compelling and I do feel that’s a mix between the products themselves as well as the skincare regimen on the website where you keep it very simple – simplicity is also part of achieving clear skin as well.

The one notable con for me is the shipping. It is quite pricey, so I would recommend doing a bulk order if you did like the products the first time around. Now that I have tried both skincare items I do plan on repurchasing the moisturizer and having it as a staple in my routine. Another “holy shiz” moment the shipping is the time – I got 6-45 days! Hot dang that’s a long ass time. Malezia is a new company run by a small team trying to uphold quality and value as much as possible, so this is why I’m not letting this con effect my opinion of the products and brand as a whole.

Another reminder is that the BPO Gel can still bleach fabric. After I apply it, I wash my hands properly and wear a white shirt as my pajamas and have a white pillowcase.

Overall I love the heart of what Malezia stands for and its attention to detail. Choosing effective ingredients, minimal formulation, cosmetic elegance, and packaging choices. Being a baseline skincare routine for those with acne-prone and other malassezia-induced skin concerns. This is definitely a brand worth supporting if you have the budget for it – in the long run, if you end up just needing these products, it is worth it.

WHERE TO BUY:
Malezia Offical website (affiliate link and code)
MICHELLE“* 10% OFF
https://malezia.com/Michelle

*If you use the code and/or link to make a purchase, I earn a small commission. Thank you so much if you decide to use them!

As always, I hope you find content like this helpful and informative!

xo, M

My First Skincare Haul of 2022!

I am proud of myself to say that my first set of skincare purchases of 2022 was back in March, all of which replaced an empty that couldn’t be replaced by another item in my skincare collection. You’ll notice many of the ones I will mention are French Pharmacy, and a couple of purchases was specifically for my post – CO2 Fraxel laser care.

Before you continue reading, please be sure to check out the following relevant blog posts that may provide further insight into this one:

Let’s Low Buy! My Rules for 2022 | Journey to Minimalism
Skin Update #6: Acne + Scars
Low Buy Update #1: 3 Month Check-In + Skincare Empties


Skincare I Purchased

Please note that products marked with an “*” indicates a PR item or gift. Links marked with “*” indicate an affiliate link – by clicking on this link and making a purchase, I earn a small commission. MICHXMASH Disclosure

Bioderma Sensibio Micellar Water

The first time I tried micellar water, I wasn’t the hugest fan. Looking back, it was probably because I wore a full face of makeup on a daily basis, so a soaked cotton round just wasn’t enough to achieve a properly cleansed face. Now that I wear minimal makeup with no foundation, and was quite lazy near the end of 2021 – micellar water just seems to fit.

Bioderma Sensibio Micellar Water
* https://rstyle.me/+9vL2Sj3BkuGIkRLZdjfcig


Avene Thermal Spring Water

While recovering from CO2 Fraxel Laser (3 times), my skin was in dire need of something soft, light, cooling, and just overall gentle. The Avene Thermal Spring Water spray produces a fine, lovely, cloudy mist all over my face and neck and gave my skin immediate relief from irritation. I also like having this on hand for days my skin has become sensitized, or it just needs a bit more TLC.

Avene Thermal Spring Water Spray
* https://rstyle.me/+KfcqhEIiWH7FO05wV3ocHA


Bioderma Atoderm Intensive Baume

Are we suprised here? Emptied so many tubes and bottles of the Bioderma Atoderm Intensive Baume! It’s my holy grail moisturizer; It comfortably moisturizes my skin without exacerbating my acne and is a great value for the price.

Bioderma Atoderm Intensive Baume
* https://rstyle.me/+53FftnxpnGicuzKJTUhk8Q


Bioderma Cicabio Pommade x2

The Bioderma Cicabio Pommade has replaced my previous go-to, La Roche Posay (LRP) Cicaplaste Baume. I find they both do the exact same thing in terms of lowering inflammation, only I prefer the texture and finish of the Bioderma Cicabio Pommade more. It has a tackier finish rather than greasy, and no white cast! I was limited to only nightly use or post-laster recovery days with LRP, but with this I can comfortably use any time of day. I love this pommade so much, I’m already on my second tube!

Bioderma Cicabio Pommade
https://www.caretobeauty.com/ca/bioderma-cicabio-pommade-soothing-repairing-ointment-40ml/


That’s all for my first skincare haul of 2022. Considering that we are already 4 months into the year, purchasing 5 products ain’t too bad. 2 of which I use daily in my skincare routine, and the others which I still like to keep on hand in case of a skin-mergency.

As always, I hope you find my content helpful and informative!

xo, M

Violette_FR Boum-Boum Milk Review

Back in the summer, I had quite the splurge-fest and purchased almost all of the products from Violette_FR’s beauty line – perfume, makeup, and skincare. As I mentioned in my Unboxing and First Impressions video, the brand just spoke to me. I appreciate Violette’s aesthetic and what she emits into the beautysphere.

In this post, I will be reviewing Violette_FR’s Boum-Boum Milk. Violette described it as a 3-in-1 cream spray (toner, serum, moisturizer), something that can be used on your face, hair and body. In addition, she wanted to create a reliable product when one has done too much to their skin – something anti-inflammatory and moisturizing, all the while promoting a minimal skincare routine.

I finished my second bottle, so I have a pretty good idea of what the product is all about and how it works/doesn’t work for me in my skincare routine.


General Information on Violette_FR Boum-Boum Milk

The French tradition of science-backed beauty innovation paired with the desire to streamline the skincare routine (for reasons of sustainability and minimalism), led to the formulation of Boum-Boum Milk. The key ingredients— Fermented Birch Sap, Glacier Water, Olive Leaf Extract— were selected for their results-driven composition by veteran chemists with over 20+ years of experience in the clean beauty world. The 3-in-1 “smart” product efficiently acts as a toner, serum and moisturizer. With one or two sprays (boum, boum!), it acts as a toner (balancing and moisturizing), a serum (highly concentrated, quick absorption) and as a hydrating moisturizer. Suitable for all skin types.” – violettefr.com

Price: $58 USD
Amount: 100ml
Packaging: Clear plastic spray bottle with a frosted gold cap


Violette_FR Boum-Boum Milk Ingredients

Up-close photo of the Violette_FR Boum-Boum Milk Ingredients list.

WATER (AQUA)(EUA), BETULA PENDULA (BIRCH) SAP, GLYCERIN, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, SQUALANE, AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM (HORSE CHESTNUT) SEED EXTRACT, ARTHROSPIRA PLATENSIS EXTRACT, CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) LEAF EXTRACT, CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOWER EXTRACT, CYAMOPSIS TETRAGONOLOBA (GUAR) GUM, CETETH-20 PHOSPHATE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, DICETYL PHOSPHATE, TOCOPHEROL, LEVULINIC ACID, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, SODIUM LEVULINATE, XANTHAN GUM, BENZYL ALCOHOL, DEHYDROACETIC ACID, CITRIC ACID

INCIDecoder

Glacier water and fermented birch sap make up the base of the formula. I believe the former is sourced from Iceland, so I’m under the assumption it has mineral content as well as the soothing properties similar to classic French Pharmacy spring thermal water mists. The latter makes up 38% of the formula and was explained by Violette to be what the French drink the day after a lovely night out to “detoxify”. While that’s nice to hear, that’s ingestion, not topical application. Fortunately, Korean skincare has gone down this route of using birch sap in their products! It’s rich in probiotics (when fermented), soothing and contains amino acids, vitamins and minerals. It’s overall a nice, different kind of humectant to have in a skincare product, and fermentation in general can boost nutritional properties of an ingredient. I would say overall, glacier water and fermented birch sap are a nice vehicle alternatives to the classic distilled water.

As for olive leaf extract, the third highlighted ingredient in the Boum-Boum Milk description, it seems to have both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. But there are other extracts in the formula that also offer these benefits and are more well-known:

  • Horse chestnut extract – anti-inflammatory and wound healing
  • Calendula extract – antioxidant and anti-inflammatory
  • Camellia sinesis leaf extract – antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial

Some lovely moisturizing ingredients can also be found in the formula such as glycerin as a star humectant, followed with emollients capriylic/capric triglyceride, sunflower seed oil, and squalane. Arthrosperia platensis extract and tocopherol make appearances in the INCI list as well for antioxidant benefits.


My Experience Using Violette_FR Boum-Boum Milk

Upon first spritz, I noticed right away the moisturizing properties of Violette_FR Boum-Boum Milk. The finish is very reminiscent of the Laneige Cream Skin Refiner (reviewed) in that it has an emollient feel, however I do find the Boum-Boum Milk sinks into the skin more and there’s a more obvious calming effect after application. After a few more uses, I’ve come to realize I’m not a huge fan of the spritzer; It’s a bit assertive, does not have even distribution of the liquid, and I noticed product leaking from the spout.

As seen in my Summer 2021 Nighttime Skincare Routine, I used the Violette_FR Boum-Boum Milk in my hydrator step by applying a few spritz to the palm of my hands and lightly massaging the fluid on my face and neck. I have also used the Boum-Boum Milk over makeup and a refresher throughout the day if my skin felt dry. In addition, I’ve decanted some of it in a mini spray bottle and took it with me to the beach to remoisturize my skin after taking a dip in the salt water. I found I most enjoyed the Violette_FR Boum-Boum Milk when I used it in the last two ways.


My Final Thoughts on Violette_FR Boum-Boum Milk

PROS

  • Gentle.
  • Calming and soothing.
  • Can use it in a number of ways to add moisture to my skin – in my skincare routine, throughout the day, at the beach 😀
  • I recall Violette saying in one of her Instagram lives that she wants clinical trials conducted on the Boum-Boum Milk – it would be a biased study mind you, but at least she wants data to show how it helps certain skin conditions.

CONS

  • The packaging – the spritzer does not dispense the product evenly, the mist itself is quite direct and not a gentle veil, and the fluid leaks.
  • Shipping – this is just a general con when ordering from violettefr.com, but it was a bit pricey. After speaking to my friend, the shipping is becoming more expensive :\ If you plan on investing in the Boum-Boum milk, be sure to keep the costly shipping in mind.

Two bottles later, I definitely like what the Violette_FR Boum-Boum Milk offered for my skin in terms of gentle and light moisturization, but I am ready to move on. Not just because I can’t actually repurchase it where I am, but the cost in CAD plus the seemingly increasing shipping prices is just becoming too much. I also have the NIOD SDSM waiting to be opened! It seems to also offer a gentle, light hydrating effect plus effective antioxidant protection. If Violette_FR finally ships to the country I’m residing in, I may consider repurchasing.

Where to Buy: Violette_FR Official Website (affiliate link – if you use this link to make a purchase, I earn a small commission. Thank you so much if you decide to use it!)

As always, I hope you find posts like this helpful and informative!

XO, M

Skin Update #6: Acne + Scars

It’s been quite a while since I shared my last skin update, so I thought it was about time for a new one!

In this update, I will be sharing my 1 year experience with using Tretinoin (Retin-A Micro), 2 year experience using Dapsone (Aczone), why I stopped taking Spironolactone after 6 months of use, and a brief chat about my experience with CO2 Fraxel Laser.

If you don’t know what I’m talking about, I highly suggested looking at past skin updates to understand the context of this one:
SKIN UPDATE #5: 0.04% to 0.1% Tretinoin, 6+ Months of Spironolactone, Professional Microneedling
SKIN UPDATE #4: Switching From Adapalene (Differin) to Tretinoin (Retin-A), Taking Spironolactone, Acne Scar Revision?
SKIN UPDATE #3: 1+ Year using Differin
Skin Update [#2]: August 2019: My Skin’s Progress so Far!
Skin Update [#1] December 2018: Acne + Scars


Tretinoin 1 Year Later

If you recall, I started using Tretinoin last spring. My derm bumped up my prescription from 0.3% Adapalene because it was clear that its strength was not enough to controls intense breakouts. It has been just over a year since I started incorporating Retin-A Micro in my skincare routine, so here are my thoughts.

  • It is a powerful molecule. I said it before and I’ll say it again, 0.04% Tretinoin did more for my skin than 0.3% Adapalene. I noticed in a month existing acne healed quicker, pores looked smaller, overall skin texture is smoother, skin quality is just overall better.
  • Slow and steady really wins the race. When I bumped up to 0.1% Tretinoin, my skin still had to go through a bit of retinization because I did experience more sensitivity with it. I was using it every night after, but started noticing my skin would look flushed and my pores would look very exaggerated. I now cut the usage to 2-3 times a week and my skin has been in a very happy state.
  • It is not the end all of acne control and anti-aging. Yes, I noticed a number of benefits when I started using it and will continue using it for the rest of my life. However, after years of on and off using a vitamin A topical, even using sunscreen, chemical exfoliants, vitamin C serums… Being super consistent with my skincare for years, I can still see wrinkles coming through on my forehead, my pores were sagging a bit which is a sign of collagen degradation, I still freckle when it’s summer time. It has only been in recent times I’ve been able to control my acne, and a big reason for it is both the use of this topical prescription as well as taking care of myself on the inside. After a year and a half of experimenting, I have finally managed to connect the way I eat to my skin health. Being disciplined in my eating habits plus these topicals help keep my skin clear and overall contribute to the graceful aging process.

Dapsone 2 Years Later

I started using it day and night everyday since January 2020 when I did my 1 year of Differin update. I felt like I could have saved myself a lot of time and money if I just stuck with what was prescribed to me and not freaked out so much about short term side effects. Dapsone is one of the gentlest prescription topicals I have used for my acne and it’s an unsung hero for sure. It helps reduce inflammation around active acne, I have been able to use it alongside other actives with no issues (tretinoin, AHAs, BHAs, Vitamin C), there’s no irritation if I overapply, and it doesn’t make other skincare textures not work in my routine. Now that my skin has been staying fairly clear, I reduced the usage and only use it at night when I use my tretinoin.


6 Months of Spironolactone

Spironolactone is an oral medication to help further assist with acne control. Originally prescribed as a diuretic to help lower blood pressure. How it works for acne is it also inhibits androgen production, which us with hormonal acne tend to be in excess of.

I first started taking it because I had a bad breakout when I saw my dermatologist in the summer of 2020. Fed up with breakouts, I agreed to going on Spironolactone while continuing my topical treatments tretinoin and dapsone. The first 3 months I most definitely had side-effects, the worst being dizziness and spotting for an entire month. After this time had passed, I definitely noticed its benefits. When I ate too many carby foods, I still did not have a bad breakout – maybe a small pimple that disappeared quickly. When it was my time of the month, same thing! Little to no breakouts. I would say I was about 98-99% clear at that point.

I took Spiro consistently for another 3 months until I ran out and decided not to get a prescription refill. I knew it was a bandaid to my lack of discipline with what I ate, and as time pass this fact bothered me a lot more. I finally figured out my gut health and how it has been effecting my skin, and the Spiro just allowed me to be lazy and undisciplined. I also didn’t like the side effects when it came to hormonal changes. I have had experience with birth control in the past and part of the reason I stopped taking it is to not be reliant on oral medication, I wanted control over my body. Spiro also effected my hormones, my period being the obvious indicator. If I was younger I wouldn’t care, but now that I’m in my 30s, hormonal health is very important for me. I know a few people who had difficulties conceiving and I was afraid that iIwould have that problem. Although the rewards of taking Spiro were good, for my situation the risks outweigh it, so that’s why I stopped taking it.

Frankly I don’t miss it, because I’m way more disciplined with my way of eating and lifestyle than I was at the time when I started taking it. I also feel very free not relying on oral medication for my acne.


CO2 Fraxel Laser

YES, I finally did it! I got my first CO2 Fraxel Peel session to address my old atrophic acne scars. I started 3 professional microneedling sessions last year and while it definitely lifted some of the scarring, improved my pores and gave a moment of plumpness to my skin, I knew I needed something more heavy duty. Even the dermatologist who performed the procedure said prior that my scars are too old and therefore difficult. I documented my healing time over on my Youtube so be sure to check it out! Long story short, it hurt lol. Now that my skin has settled from the procedure, I find my skin definitely looks smoother; Scars look more lifted, pores look more minimal, and obviously overall skin texture has been refined. I have already completed a 2nd session and will probably get a 3rd in the new year.


And that’s all, folks! As always, I hope you find content like this helpful and informative.

xo, M

Regimen Lab C.R.E.A.M. Review

Final product in my series of reviews from Regimen Lab – their C.R.E.A.M.! Be sure to check out my reviews on their Vitamin X and Wave Serum.


General Information on Regimen Lab C.R.E.A.M.

“C.R.E.A.M. is based on game-changing research that gives us a new understanding of how moisture moves through the skin. We use high-concentration ceramides to better replenish your skin’s natural barrier and aquaporins to help generate and lock in moisture.” – regimenlab.com

Price: $49 CAD/$39 USD
Amount: 50ml
Packaging: Opaque white bottle with an airless pump
pH: 4.5 – 5.0


Regimen Lab Vitamin C.R.E.A.M. Ingredients

Aqua, Glycerin, Isostearyl Isostearate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Bisabolol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Ursolic Acid, Propanediol, Adipic Acid, Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer, Phospholipids, Cholesterol, Linolenic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Tocopherol, Dimethoxymethyl Chromanol, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth 7, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin

INCIDecoder

For the skincare enthusiasts, I’m sure we have seen the “Why Most Ceramide Products are a Scam” reddit post and felt shook if our beloved moisturizer was mentioned to not have the 3:1:1 (ceramides, cholesterol, essential fatty acids) ratio of ingredients. So what is this ratio and why are us skincare enthusiasts obsessed with it? The 1:1:1 or 3:1:1 molar ratio of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids is sought after in skincare because this is reportedly the ideal ratio seen to recover the skin barrier. Since our skin is made up of these substances, it only makes sense that if we have an impaired skin barrier, we replenish it with what the skin lacks. The reason there is a range of the molar ratio is due to the barrier recovery being dependent on factors such as your skin type, your use of topicals, etc. You can read more about it in the pdf down below, but it is a difficult read for us non-science lingo oriented folk:

Optimization of Physiological Lipid Mixtures for Barrier Repair

Regimen Lab states their C.R.E.A.M. has a 3:1:1:1 (note the extra 1) ratio of ceramides, cholesterol, essential fatty acids (EFAs), and non-essential fatty acids (NEFAs). So naturally, I was excited to try it out and see what impact it may have on my skin!

Quick Briefer:

  • Ceramides – make up 50% of the outer layer of our skin – they help make up the glue that holds our skin cells together, keeping our skin hydrated.
  • Cholesterol – make up 25% of the lipids on the outer layer of our skin
  • Fatty Acids – make up 15% of the lipids on the outer layer of our skin

From my understanding (a non-science profession one), the ratio C.R.E.A.M. is as follows based on their 5% of the following ingredients and how it’s ordered in the INCI list:

2.5% Ceramides (NP + EOP) : 0.833% Cholesterol + Phospholipids : 0.833% Lineonic Acid (Omega 3, essential) + Linoleic Acid (Omega 6) : 0.833% Stearic Acid

Alright, now that we (including I) understand this 3:1:1:1 ratio offered in C.R.E.A.M., time for the rest of the standout ingredients!

5% Glycerin – also an ingredient naturally occurring in our skin that acts as a humectant.

2% Isosorbide Dicaprylate and 2% Glyceryl Glucoside – according to Regimen Lab, help activate more efficient hydration alongside Glycerin.

2% Bisabolol – soothing.

2% Ursolic Acid Liposomes – according to Regimen Lab, this ingredient helps support the skin barrier.

Tocopherol – antioxidant.

Are you still with me? That was quite a doozy to go through and write down considering I haven’t blogged in quite a while. But I’m glad you made it through this skinthusiast perspective about the madness behind this 3:1:1 ratio! Now on to my personal use of C.R.E.A.M.


My Experience Using Regimen Lab C.R.E.A.M.

As you may have guessed, I used Regimen Lab C.R.E.A.M. as my moisturizer lol. In the AM it was after all the serums, before SPF (of course), in the PM it was the last step in my skincare routine. I applied 2 pumps of C.R.E.A.M. for my face and neck as it was well within summer I started using it. Now that we’re going into the colder weather, I find myself doubling the amount!

The finish feels nice and velvety, it also doesn’t look super glowy, it just gives the skin a nice healthy look. Unfortunately both in the summer now fall months I found this moisture to disappear, particularly if I was inside majority of the day; My skin felt dry to the touch and my face would start to feel a tad tight. My face would feel comfortable if I was out and about, producing tidbits of my own oils mixed into C.R.E.A.M. When I used this moisturizer at night on its own however, I found myself waking up with dry, slightly tight skin. This plus the weather change is what prompted me to increase the amount I used; While the feeling did improve a bit, I still sometimes find myself applying my go-to moisturizer as a safeguard.

I also tried using C.R.E.A.M. in combination with the Wave Serum and I wasn’t a fan of this mixture, I’d rather use the two separately. In addition I used it as a “supplemental” moisturizing product in my routine on its own but I just wasn’t into the feel and finish of it on my skin, I preferred the Wave Serum for this purpose.


My Final Thoughts on Regimen Lab C.R.E.A.M.

I appreciate the formulation of Regimen Lab’s C.R.E.A.M. in that it’s offering us skincare nerds that “golden” ratio of barrier repairing ingredients, but unfortunately it doesn’t really suit my routine at the moment. It is not rich enough for my dry skin to use as a moisturizer, I just use too much for 50ml. I wasn’t a fan of mixing it with the Wave Serum, and overall on its own I didn’t really notice any significant impact it had on my skin’s health. I don’t think I am the right candidate for this skincare product, it may be better suited to those who are in dire need of something repairing.

Where to Buy: Regimen Lab Official Website

As always, I hope you find content like this helpful and informative!

xo, M